Although Mondo Kaos carries clothes from S - 4XL , the store is not a decidedly plus size store, but it is definitely a store where you should feel welcome regardless of body type and ideal. That's why we also carry plus sizes in a number of models, and of course we also carry general clothes that look good, regardless of what size you may be. Today we take a closer look at how plus size emerged as a phenomenon, because it tells a lot about the history of fashion up through the 20th century.
Mass production and standard sizes
Although we have always been subject to a certain body ideal, the body ideal before 1900 was an ideal where female curves were paramount, even with corsets and lace waists, it was still desirable to have full bosoms and hips, and often also chubby thighs and arms. Around the year 1900, something happened which caused the perception of clothes, figure and sizes to change, because clothes started to be 'mass' produced. There was of course not yet the large quantities of clothes that are produced today, but people went from hand-tailoring clothes, specifically for the individual person, to producing clothes according to standard cuts and measurements in larger quantities; i.e. "rod gear"!
The new mass-produced clothes were initially exclusively made in standard sizes, for the common woman, in order to keep production costs down and profits up. Standard sizes were (and, incidentally, quite often still are) based on a standard measurement, preferably small or medium, and simply adding or subtracting over the entire cut pattern to make it xs or xl etc. It is clear that this approach simply does not provide well-fitting clothes for those who fall outside the standard.
Lane Bryant Invents 'Misses Plus Size'
The first to figure it out was Lane Bryant, who at the beginning of the 20th century began making maternity and postpartum clothing with an adjustable waistband. This was a new and clever invention. She noticed that there was a lack of clothing for several groups of women, and in 1922 she began making clothes for plus-size women. She simply coined the term "Misses Plus Sizes" and thus made the famous Charleston cut of the 1920s available to women with a chest size of 96 (inch 36) and over. It was, among other things, through the meeting with the engineer (and her future husband) Malsin that they discovered that when it came to plus-size, the shapes were different from those that were otherwise used as standard. Together, they set out to develop clothes that should be able to fit all women with larger measurements than the norm. In England you come across the word 'outsize' lady and another word you come across is even 'stout'. However, it was not the case that this category stood alone, others also arose around this time, for example the petite woman got patterns and cuts called 'for the not so tall'. The men had to apply for special sizes under the 'Big and Tall' category.
The 1950s ideal and Dior's New Look
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Even in the 1940s with the athletic figure as the icon, fashion was still focused on the feminine silhouette, so it was possible to dress in the fashion of the time even as a plus size. But you had to wait until the 1950s before the legendary hourglass model and shapes really came back into fashion. It was perhaps still mostly about slim women but with large breasts and hips a la Marilyn Monroe, Sophia Loren and Elizabeth Taylor. Nevertheless, thinness alone was not desirable, and there were pills to help women gain weight so that they could become more desirable. It was of course also in the 1950s that Dior's New Look came into being. The iconic New Look was an inclusive style. Although it was modeled on slender women, it suited women with a larger figure excellently.
Twiggy and the 'Big Beauties'
With the 1960s came the youth revolution, mini skirts, and not least Twiggy! This meant dieting tyranny, but in response, groups arose that celebrated that they were not like Twiggy. Fat-in days were held in the US, where people gathered and burned pictures of Twiggy. As a showdown with fashion's ideal of slimness, plus size fashion shows were also held. All this paved the way for a new and free understanding of the body as we see it at the end of the 1960s and in the 1970s. For the first time in 1977 a modeling agency for women with a different size 'Big Beauties – Little Women' opened. In 1978 another Plus size agency "Plus Model" opened and the famous Ford Models took 2! plus size models into their agency in 1978. It fit the spirit of the times, even though the ideal of the 1970s was still a slim female body. Up through the 1970s and 80s, several plus size stores opened, and each country had its own brand of clothing for plus size women.
Diversity and body positivism
With the new millennium came a new body positivism agenda! Out with 90s heroin chic in with diversity. With even greater opportunities for expression through social media, the focus once again came on beauty ideals and discrimination; it was not only different sizes but also age, gender and skin color that was wrong. Bloggers and influencers were simply given a mouthpiece so they could show that plus size girls also like fashion, and especially - can also wear it. It must be said that Millennials have been the new pioneers and ensured that the fashion industry can no longer ignore the call for diversity!
Plus-size on the cat walk
The big trend-setting luxury design houses are still lagging behind, but the good news is that there are more and more models at the international fashion weeks in New York, Paris, Milan and London who are over 50, of skin color other than white and of so-called non- straight-size. In 2020, a total of 86 models were plus size! Even Chanel featured a plus size model for the first time in 10 years when they presented their summer 2020 collection. Although still called plus size, another word has started to creep in; "curvy women", but like plus size, it's a bit strange since most women are curvy.
Curvy – or 'inclusive' clothing for women at Mondo Kaos
At Mondo Kaos, we like to be both curvy and less curvy, and our sizes are therefore 'women's sizes' and not those you find at, for example, HM. We choose the brands we take home based on whether the clothes add to the female body, and take into account both large and small curves. There must be blouses for those with large as well as small breasts regardless of size (see Stine's guide to blouses for ladies with fuller breasts). The clothes should not sit and flutter, but snuggle around the body, and show the female body from its most beautiful side by embracing diversity as well as curves.
We love the style from the 1940s and 1950s for the very reason that the style was created for the female figure, and therefore our clothes are a mix of vintage and retro style and simply beautiful clothes for women from brands we know can deliver just that, and who have the same positive attitude towards the female body as we do. We carry clothes in plus sizes in 2XL 3XL and 4XL and some models up to 5XL and 6XL. You are always welcome to stop by the store where you can get lots of expertise, advice and guidance from our wonderful staff.
We look forward to seeing you in Mondo Kaos, and to showing you all our beautiful vintage and retro clothes regardless of size.
Loving greetings,
Team Mondo Kaos ♥
Read more:
Guide to tops & shirts for 'big-breasted women'
The story of the Pinup girl
How to take care of your 'Vintage style' dresses and clothes
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